| It's easy to visit Western Malaysia and feel as if you're in India or China, or even somewhere in the United States. All that changed for us when we left our plush hotel overlooking the Petronas towers for a homestay in Hulu Chuchoh, an ethnic Malay Islamic "kampung" or village amid palm, rubber, tapioca and coffee plantations 40 miles from Kuala Lumpur. Moving in with Partiwi Zainal and her family meant sweating out two nights sleeping without air conditioning. But sitting in their living room the other night, learning congkak, a game played with marbles and a wooden box that looks like an oversized tray for deviled eggs, I realized what a special opportunity this was to learn about each other's cultures first-hand instead of what we read in the news or hear on television.
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